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Interests and the Wine Market Are Changing

Ciliegiolo, Trebbiano, Procanico: Interests and the Wine Market Are Changing

This is the perspective of someone who has been on the public side of the wine world.

For years, before considering switching sides to wine production, this person focused solely on listening to market demands, always aiming to promote local products.

A few years ago, proposing and successfully selling a pure Ciliegiolo or a macerated Trebbiano was nearly impossible. Only a small group of enthusiasts, more experienced and with more wines tasted, would venture into choosing lesser-known varieties and local labels. Running a wine shop or restaurant meant curating a wine list with essential references, popular varieties, and well-known names—or trendy ones like Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, Chianti, Montalcino, Valpolicella Ripasso, Ca’ del Bosco, Gewürztraminer, Passerina, Pecorino, and others. These well-known wines would support the inclusion of local labels, which, as noted, required a significant “narrative effort” to convince customers.

When discussing wine, the concept of territory, or terroir, is essential. Our terroir, that of the Città del Tufo, has historically been tied to the DOC Bianco di Pitigliano. However, many local producers today no longer identify with this designation. Instead, they prefer to vinify historical local varieties—such as Ciliegiolo, Trebbiano, and Procanico—under the IGT Maremma or the newer DOC Maremma Toscana guidelines. This lack of alignment with the local certification has resulted in years of market misperception regarding the quality of these wines. Without the backing of a “strong DOC,” local products have suffered from price and image devaluation.

To give you a better idea

Here’s a superficial comparison between the Città del Tufo area and one of the world’s wine capitals, Val d’Orcia, including Montalcino and Montepulciano. These two territories are only about 35 km apart in a straight line.

In the 2023 vintage, the value of a quintal of Montalcino grapes can exceed €1,000, whereas in Città del Tufo it’s less than €100. One hectare of vineyard in Montalcino costs around €1 million, while in Città del Tufo it’s roughly €20,000. A bottle of DOCG Brunello typically sells for around €40, while a DOC Maremma Ciliegiolo bottle is about €8. The average high season price for a night in Val d’Orcia is around €180 in a B&B, whereas in Città del Tufo it’s around €100.

Why is there such a stark difference in perception and image between these two areas that are geographically so close?

There are many reasons, including differences in terroir, grape varieties, social development, proximity to communication routes, and the very morphology of the regions. Val d’Orcia is easier to cultivate and enjoys perfect sun exposure, while Città del Tufo is equally fertile but more rugged and challenging to manage. However, in summary, we believe the key factor that Città del Tufo has lacked is experimentation. The ability to experiment, rather than merely optimize existing practices, requires very specific economic, social, and territorial conditions that foster innovation.

Up until about 20 years ago, Città del Tufo did not have those conditions, nor was there a pressing need to update the DOC Bianco di Pitigliano from 1946. That DOC had produced a wine that met the market’s needs for decades and was the region’s primary economic driver for over 40 years. Only recently has there been a shift toward experimentation and innovation, which is now essential for closing the gap with more renowned Tuscan wine regions.

Cycles are cycles and, as such, made up of highs and lows.

The historical low of the first cycle of DOC Bianco di Pitigliano occurred at the end of the 1990s when the wine was mainly Traminer or aged in wood—choices driven by the market needs of that time. These trends pushed the local DOC out of the spotlight but allowed for the arrival of major companies and the first wine artisans in the Città del Tufo area. By the early 2000s, a process of development in the wine sector began, which in turn stimulated growth in the region. Today, as in the past, vine cultivation and wine production remain the area’s primary economic resources, along with tourism. While still in its early stages, a new cycle of experimentation and innovation has begun, gradually bridging the gap with the broader Tuscan wine industry’s advancements that the region missed around 30 years ago.

Since the 1990s, when the focus was on Traminer and woody flavors, the rules of the game have been shifting. Consumers, and the market as a whole, have become more attentive to product quality and origin. There is growing skepticism toward large-scale productions, and people are more aware of the marketing strategies that support them. The emphasis on sustainability—both in terms of the projects and the products we consume—has become increasingly important. Living well, minimizing pollution, recycling, and striving for sustainability are now part of a broader cultural shift. It is within this new perceptual framework that artisanal productions, like those of small wine producers and local products from the Città del Tufo, are gaining recognition and establishing their presence.

For example, our Burrasca

In 2023, we produced only 1,000 bottles of a 100% Ciliegiolo, vinified in white, creating a Rosé labeled IGT Maremma. This wine, called Burrasca, is a perfect example of how experimentation in Maremma today can lead to small yet significant innovations in both flavor and pairings. It’s the first technical 100% Ciliegiolo Rosé in the Maremma region and stands out as an innovative ambassador of the local wine culture.

Unlike traditional Rosés often associated with “candy-like” flavors meant to be consumed ice-cold, Burrasca reveals its true potential when enjoyed at a warmer temperature. It maintains a solid structure despite its bright acidity and minerality, and while the typical aromatics of Rosés are slightly subdued, the wine’s persistence and character are elevated. Being a white vinification of a red grape, Burrasca avoids overly sweet notes, offering instead refined citrus hints, strawberry, and slightly unripe red fruit, all while being warm and enveloping once opened.

This Rosé is versatile in pairings, working not only with fish and vegetables but also with cured meats, cheeses, sauces, and even white meats, including game. The traditional rules of pairing are evolving—ten years ago, a Rosé might only have been suggested with a prawn cocktail, and a Ciliegiolo-based Rosé would have struggled to make it onto wine lists.

Long live experimentation, and may sustainability be embraced not as a fleeting trend but as a meaningful and enduring approach!

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